72 Hours in the Real South Louisiana
I’ve spent plenty of time in Louisiana over the past 25 years – trips for both business and pleasure to New Orleans; Bassmaster Classics in Shreveport, hunting adventures at Grosse Savanne near Lake Charles; and a couple of tournaments at Toledo Bend – but most of those trips have been curated. I was there for a particular purpose or event and didn’t have time to get lost in the culture or scenery.
That’s how this last trip started out, too. Hanna and I flew to New Orleans and drove an hour southwest to Thibodeaux for a swamp photography seminar with Bassmaster photographer Andy Crawford. Well, Hanna was there to learn to take her camera off auto and I was there to be supportive.
As it turned out, I was the big winner, because while Hanna’s photography skills improved exponentially over the course of three days, I got the real taste of Louisiana that I’d craved. After shooting sunrises from Lake Verret and before shooting sunsets, there was ample time to mix in with the locals. Here are four highlights:
Alvin Batiste – After shooting the swamp Friday morning, Andy had to go to Framerdave’s Frame Shop in Donaldsonville to pick up a print he’d sold to an out-of-state customer. That same shop happens to be the “home” and studio of Alvin Batiste, one of Louisiana’s most celebrated folk artists. He sells paintings all over the world, and Billy Bob Thornton commissioned him to produce an album cover. He sits and paints in the shop four or five days a week, and not only did we get to see an extensive selection of his work, but we were privileged to visit with Mr. Batiste for an extended period of time.
Cane Sugar Toffee Company -- As we prepared to leave Donaldsonville, we saw a sign for the Cane Sugar Toffee Coffee. Outside the store, next to an antique tractor, was a sign written in both English and Korean. We stopped in to get a cup of coffee and snack and we were instantly welcomed by some of the friendliest people we’ve ever met. The Korean lettering, the gentleman behind the counter explained, was because Hyundai was building a plant down the road and they wanted to welcome their new neighbors. He’d even stocked some typical Korean snacks. I turned down a pastry, but then his wife offered me a cookie as a “lagniappe” – a word I’d seen written but never heard spoken.
B&C Seafood Market – It’s hard to find a bad meal in South Louisiana (pro tip: many of the best ones come from gas stations) and we had great gumbo, etouffee and Po Boys over the first couple of days. On Saturday, Andy asked if we wanted to return to any of the past winners and I suggested we find the most hole-in-the-wall option available. A quick Google search led to B&C Seafood – and I pounced when I saw that they had turtle, alligator and garfish on the menu. We didn’t order those, but the gumbo and fried boudin balls were incredible. Even Andy said he’d make a special trip back just to eat there.
Boucherie and Balloon Festival – When Andy’s wife Yvette drove back home Saturday, she passed by the annual balloon festival and suggested that we come back that evening. We jumped at the chance to join the locals as they listened to renowned Cajun musician Wayne Toups, enjoyed regional fare, and celebrated community. Unlike our normal, day-to-day lives, we were in no rush, we could soak it all in. And then we ate again.
Hanna and I spent most of Sunday in New Orleans, one of our favorite cities in the country, if not on the planet, and it felt like a minor letdown. We had a great meal, she took pics, and we soaked in the local scenes, but it made us feel like 100% tourists once again. On the other hand, it helped us realize how lucky we’d been to gain entry into the Crawfords’ world for just a couple of days, and to see and experience things that aren’t in the typical trip agenda.
If you’d like to see South Louisiana through the eyes and lens of Andy Crawford on one of his swamp photography workshops, shoot us an email and we’ll get you lined up for this amazing and educational experience. He runs workshops in other parts of the country, too, but trust me – it’s a special treat to learn from him in his native state.